Black Diamond Ultralight Ice Screw
The Ultralight Ice Screw earns best-in-class status for rock and ice shelter anchors by combining exceptionally low weight with reliable bite, making it ideal for long approaches or lightweight shelter kits. Compared with heavier, more expensive options like the Grivel 360 it trades some raw durability for portability and value, and while it lacks the rapid-placement ergonomics of the Petzl Laser Speed Light it is a more budget-friendly choice for multi-screw anchor systems.
Featherweight security
Quick-bite action
Featherweight security
Quick-bite action
Review Summary
"Lightweight, fast-cutting ice screw popular for alpine and mixed climbing; reviewers praise its cutting efficiency and reliable build, though a few note threads can corrode if not cleaned after use."
Tiny-pack hero
Thin-walled aluminum shaft dramatically reduces weight for long alpine approaches.
Tiny-pack hero
Thin-walled aluminum shaft dramatically reduces weight for long alpine approaches.
Enhanced Physical Well-Being
Recreational Enjoyment
Time-Saving Convenience
The Ultralight Ice Screw earns best-in-class status for rock and ice shelter anchors by combining exceptionally low weight with reliable bite, making it ideal for long approaches or lightweight shelter kits. Compared with heavier, more expensive options like the Grivel 360 it trades some raw durability for portability and value, and while it lacks the rapid-placement ergonomics of the Petzl Laser Speed Light it is a more budget-friendly choice for multi-screw anchor systems.
Featherweight security
Quick-bite action
Tiny-pack hero
Thin-walled aluminum shaft dramatically reduces weight for long alpine approaches.
Tubular construction with aggressive thread profile for faster cutting in hard ice.
Featherweight security
Quick-bite action
Tiny-pack hero
Thin-walled aluminum shaft dramatically reduces weight for long alpine approaches.
Tubular construction with aggressive thread profile for faster cutting in hard ice.
$60-120 USD
Petzl Laser Speed Light
The Laser Speed Light is a market-leading ice screw focused on speed and ergonomics, providing rapid placements and an integrated handle that benefits quick construction of ice and mixed shelter anchors. It outperforms many competitors in placement speed and user comfort, although it is generally pricier than simple ultralight screws and not a substitute for robust stainless options like the Grivel 360 when maximum durability is required.
Blink-fast placements
Smooth threading
Blink-fast placements
Smooth threading
Review Summary
"Extremely fast-cutting, lightweight screw with smooth threading and a low-profile hanger; users consistently praise its speed and reliability, with only minor gripes about price and occasional availability."
Pocket rocket
Optimized blade geometry and low friction make placements and removals fast.
Pocket rocket
Optimized blade geometry and low friction make placements and removals fast.
Time-Saving Convenience
Skill Development & Mastery
Recreational Enjoyment
The Laser Speed Light is a market-leading ice screw focused on speed and ergonomics, providing rapid placements and an integrated handle that benefits quick construction of ice and mixed shelter anchors. It outperforms many competitors in placement speed and user comfort, although it is generally pricier than simple ultralight screws and not a substitute for robust stainless options like the Grivel 360 when maximum durability is required.
Blink-fast placements
Smooth threading
Pocket rocket
Optimized blade geometry and low friction make placements and removals fast.
Aluminum shaft paired with reinforced steel teeth balances weight and durability.
Blink-fast placements
Smooth threading
Pocket rocket
Optimized blade geometry and low friction make placements and removals fast.
Aluminum shaft paired with reinforced steel teeth balances weight and durability.
$80-150 USD
DMM Wallnut Set
The Wallnut set is best-in-class for passive rock protection in shelter anchors, offering slim profiles, excellent fit in constricted placements and a low-cost way to build redundant rock anchors. Compared to active camming devices like the Camalot C4, Wallnuts are lighter and far more affordable per unit, though they require suitable cracks and do not cover the same range of placement geometries as cams.
Slim crack fit
Solid bite
Slim crack fit
Solid bite
Review Summary
"Compact, low-profile nuts valued for versatile placements and durable anodized finish; long-term users report consistent performance and longevity, with occasional comments on high per-piece cost."
Pocket-sized hero
Precision-machined, tapered nut shapes fit a wide range of constrictions and seams.
Pocket-sized hero
Precision-machined, tapered nut shapes fit a wide range of constrictions and seams.
Skill Development & Mastery
Time-Saving Convenience
The Wallnut set is best-in-class for passive rock protection in shelter anchors, offering slim profiles, excellent fit in constricted placements and a low-cost way to build redundant rock anchors. Compared to active camming devices like the Camalot C4, Wallnuts are lighter and far more affordable per unit, though they require suitable cracks and do not cover the same range of placement geometries as cams.
Slim crack fit
Solid bite
Pocket-sized hero
Precision-machined, tapered nut shapes fit a wide range of constrictions and seams.
Anodized, color-coded sizes for quick selection and improved corrosion resistance.
Slim crack fit
Solid bite
Pocket-sized hero
Precision-machined, tapered nut shapes fit a wide range of constrictions and seams.
Anodized, color-coded sizes for quick selection and improved corrosion resistance.
$250-350 USD
Black Diamond Camalot C4
The Camalot C4 remains the market leader for active rock protection when building rock shelter anchors because of its proven dual-axle design, wide range of sizes and durable construction that gives consistent placement security. It gives more placement versatility and quicker cleaning than passive nuts such as the DMM Wallnut, at the expense of higher weight and cost, and is clearly the go-to for complex or flaring crack systems where passive pieces won’t work.
Range-spanning cams
Smooth trigger
Range-spanning cams
Smooth trigger
Review Summary
"The industry-standard camming device known for wide range, robust construction, and dependable placements; climbers overwhelmingly praise its performance, though some opt for newer ultralight variants to save weight."
Classic workhorse
Dual-axle camming unit provides an extended range of coverage with each size.
Classic workhorse
Dual-axle camming unit provides an extended range of coverage with each size.
Skill Development & Mastery
Time-Saving Convenience
Recreational Enjoyment
The Camalot C4 remains the market leader for active rock protection when building rock shelter anchors because of its proven dual-axle design, wide range of sizes and durable construction that gives consistent placement security. It gives more placement versatility and quicker cleaning than passive nuts such as the DMM Wallnut, at the expense of higher weight and cost, and is clearly the go-to for complex or flaring crack systems where passive pieces won’t work.
Range-spanning cams
Smooth trigger
Classic workhorse
Dual-axle camming unit provides an extended range of coverage with each size.
Durable alloy lobes and keyed stem deliver consistent placements over time.
Range-spanning cams
Smooth trigger
Classic workhorse
Dual-axle camming unit provides an extended range of coverage with each size.
Durable alloy lobes and keyed stem deliver consistent placements over time.
$90-160 USD
Grivel 360 Ice Screw
The Grivel 360 ice screw is a premium choice for shelter anchors that demand maximum strength and longevity, offering robust construction and dependable performance in variable ice conditions. While heavier and typically more expensive than ultralight models from Black Diamond and quicker-placement designs like the Petzl Laser Speed Light, the 360’s durability and all-condition reliability make it attractive for multi-season base anchors or professional guide use.
360° hanger
Quick-cut threads
360° hanger
Quick-cut threads
Review Summary
"Well-designed ice screw with a rotating hanger and efficient cutting performance; users like its robustness and ease of use, but some find it slightly heavier or pricier than ultralight competitors."
Rotating belay
Full 360° rotating hanger reduces torque and lets you orient the hanger easily.
Rotating belay
Full 360° rotating hanger reduces torque and lets you orient the hanger easily.
Time-Saving Convenience
Recreational Enjoyment
The Grivel 360 ice screw is a premium choice for shelter anchors that demand maximum strength and longevity, offering robust construction and dependable performance in variable ice conditions. While heavier and typically more expensive than ultralight models from Black Diamond and quicker-placement designs like the Petzl Laser Speed Light, the 360’s durability and all-condition reliability make it attractive for multi-season base anchors or professional guide use.
360° hanger
Quick-cut threads
Rotating belay
Full 360° rotating hanger reduces torque and lets you orient the hanger easily.
Aggressive cutting teeth and welded hanger construction for long service life.
360° hanger
Quick-cut threads
Rotating belay
Full 360° rotating hanger reduces torque and lets you orient the hanger easily.
Aggressive cutting teeth and welded hanger construction for long service life.
$90-150 USD